Lonesome rider - 230km alongside Rhine by bike

Since I had played with the thought of cycling alongside Rhine river for a while already, the bank holiday last week and the arrival of spring lead to a four day bike trip, just by myself: Destination was Cologne where my youngest sister is living, about 230km from Frankfurt if you always follow the turns of first Main and then Rhine river.

I packed my bags (borrowed saddlebags from a colleague), a tent and sleeping bag and hopped on my bike. I was happy to have four days on my own with no plans made except for the final destination. I could decide everything free and spontaneously: where to go and when, where to take breaks and where to camp. 

The first day I rode the first 30km next to the Main river to Mainz. Lots of green fields, trees and gravel ways, at least after I had passed the industrial areas West of Frankfurt. It took some time to get used to riding a bike with the bags, I rode much slower than I expected. After Mainz I hit the Rhine, my buddy for the next 200km ;) 

Not to keep the long days on the bike for the last days, I tried to reach as far as I could on the first day already; thus, only stopped in Rüdesheim after 65km. The ride to Rüdesheim was scenic, mostly directly alongside the river, but also with slight detours through the wineyards, which almost killed me due to the ups and downs with the bags. Tired but happy, I arrived on a camp ground where I got one of the last spaces to build my tent. I skipped my original idea of camping in the wild on the first day even, because for once it is not allowed in Germany and secondly I desperately wanted a shower after the bike rides... I immediately made friends with four other guys who were camping with a tent and spent the evening together with a few beers.

I woke up early because the sun was heating up my tent and the birds were singing :) I felt the ride in my buttocks and knees, but was also motivated to keep going after a quick breakfast. This day was the most crowded; due to the public holiday, there was many cyclists and also hiking groups. But the stretch was one of the most beautiful ones between heaps of castles on both sides of the river, wineyards and mostly right next to the river - left side of the Rhine by now. I took several stops, not only to rest but also to enjoy the scenery and have a tea or coffee.

I arrived at the German corner in Koblenz, where Rhine and Mosel river meet, after a long and sunny day; my knees hurt, and I was craving a place to lay in the sun, have an icecream and maybe a beer. Fortunately Koblenz had options for that and I had a very relaxing afternoon and evening there, ate "the best icecream in the world" at eGeLoSIa and fell asleep early after the 70km I cycled that day.

The next morning I started a 7 AM already because my "neighbours" began taking down their tent at 6 AM. Life on a campground is much like the stereotypes suggest: significant amount of Dutch tourists, families with kids that run around screaming and shouting till midnight, and the somewhat older people that wake up early mornings and start roaming around. But despite a bit chilly nights I really enjoyed it, and the first hour of the day was one of the best and happiest during my trip! I was cycling almost entirely by myself, had lots of energy and the sun just came up so it wasn't too hot but still warm.

Also something I noticed when you are cycling those long distances by yourself: You can feel up one minute and down the next, be very lonely and tired at one point, then feel totally energetic and jovial again. But just as I hoped for, it was easy to gain a piece of mind and many peaceful moments. I established a love-hate relationship with my bike, loving the freedom and fresh air but also hating the exercise and hard saddle :P And the longer I rode, the more food and relax breaks I took.

On the third day I hit my lowest: After the joyful and energetic morning I wanted to quit the tour and take a train or boat for the rest; it was too hot, I was exhausted and still quite a distance to go. Instead I checked in at a camp ground at 2.30 PM after 50km only, stayed in their beergarden, read a book and just hung out. This gave me the energy for the last leg on Saturday morning, which became a spurt even.

I passed Bonn, Germany's former capital, stopped for breakfast and some sightseeing and then made the last 30km to Cologne in less than two hours, much faster then I used to go on any of the previous days. When I finally met my sister there, I was tired and sweaty, but incredibly happy and proud of me for completing the whole way. And I was able to enjoy a relaxing weekend in Cologne in very good company.

 

The train ride home on Sunday was an adventure itself; with overly crowded trains, stuffed bicycle waggons and delays due to severe storms somewhere up north. Nevertheless, I made it back home in the end.

Hang loose,

Sebbo