Bosnia - an emotional trip to the 90s

For some reason Bosnia and particularly Sarajevo was the place I was most curious about in the balkan region. Maybe memories of what I heard about the Bosnian war in my childhood, maybe the little I knew about it but few stories...

First realization when we arrived in Bosnia was that Euros are widely accepted, almost as common as the Bosnian Convertible Marka (based on the former German Mark). Secondly, we noticed the coexistence of Islam and Christianity - mosques and churches are located right next to each other. 

Due to the conditions of ever winding roads and long distances, we decided to focus on two destinations - Mostar and Sarajevo including surroundings - and whatever immediate interest we draw to places on the way. Thus, we took a half day to explore Trebinje, its old town and ancient Arslanagić bridge.

When arriving to Mostar we had some trouble to find our guesthouse: in Bosnia guesthouse means a private room in or next to a locals flat/apartment, so there was even no sign for a guesthouse but on the flat's door. Even though we shared the bathroom with five more people, the price of 20€/night including breakfast and very hospitable owners made the stay comfortable.

Mostar is advertised as "where East meets West" and did not disappoint with its picturesque old bridge and cobble stone roads; if at all it was too touristy, crowded and hot. Due to Mostars location in a valley the almost 40 degrees felt even hotter, and the heavy shower in the evening was very welcomed - it was the first rain in two months.

 

Eventually, my expectations were met in Sarajevo: The city was and is tremendously interesting historically, culturally and regarding diversity. To learn and become aware of what has happened here - and in Bosnia in general - not too long ago and how it evolved, to see how people cope with the aftermath with humor and optimism and just how many traces of the war can still be seen due to a lack of money for reconstruction, has been a truly emotional and enriching experience for me! Little did I know..

Plenty of museums worth visiting teach about the tragedies that happened during the Bosnian war and the yearlong siege of Sarajevo that occured after the independency referendum in 1992. Bosnia was divided in two parts at that time; while almost 100% of Bosnia and Herzegovina - Bosnian muslims and Croatian catholics - voted for a country independent from Yugoslavia, the Republika Srpska - mainly orthodox Serbs - votes were outnumbered, the overall result came to 62% pro independency. Since this didn't suit the Serbian idea of establishing a "greater Serbian country", the Republica Srpska started attacking Bosnia and Herzegovina with the support of Serbia. It all peaked in the massacre of Srebenica in July 1995: Several thousands of Muslims were prosecuted and killed in this genocide. 

Recommended exhibitions are the Gallery 11/07/95 and the War Childhood Museum. I had tears in my eyes almost all over the exhibition, those stories of the children are very moving and emotional. How sad and how important to tell at the same time! It also makes you realize how small our own problems are in contrast. The last words of the exhibition sum it up good: life lasts longer than us and our experiences.

Today Bosnia and Herzegovina is still divided into Bosnians, Croatian and Serbians with religion being the main distinction. Even though churches, monastries and mosques stand side by side, the ethnicities don't seem to mix too well and live together as majorities in their own cantons/areas. 

Sarajevo is such a lively city, especially Friday night was crowded in the centre due to the Sarajevo Film Festival. Dressed up girls and women, live music, young people gathering and having drinks next to a park, outdoor bars, and also tourists strolling down the main streets. The old town Baščaršija shows evidence of the Otomans being in Bosnia for a few hundred years and Turkey and Bosnia being "brother countries": with its coffee shops, small markets and a mix of traditional muslims and modern Europeans, we felt like in Turkey. It did not feel like a city where you can still find traces of war on every corner, many buildings still destroyed and plenty of bullet marks in the walls..

Besides, if you are not yet intrigued to visit Bosnia, prices are low and food options are plentyful: You can easily find a filling meal for as low as 7€ (2 persons including drinks), just know that the Bosnian cuisine is strongly based on meat and bread and most of the food was too greasy, salty or sweet for my taste. But totally recommended dishes to try are Cevapi (Cevapcici) with kaymak, Bosnian pie (or Burek) and the desserts Sampita and yummy Trilece.

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