Morocco - (Kite) Surfing and busy markets

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Escape the grey and cool autumn days in Germany for a few days of surf and chill in the Moroccan sun? ALWAYS :) After I found cheap Ryanair tickets, I packed my bag light (best and cheapest way to travel with Ryanair is hand luggage only) and took of for Marrakech. Since 30+ degrees and infinite sunshine were awaiting me, this was enough for eight days in Morocco:


I just made my flight from Frankfurt Hahn, after the bus drivers missed fruitless attempt to avoid a traffic jam by taking a de-tour through rural areas. Thanks to few crowds and kinda fast procedures at the tiny airport, I safely arrived to Marrakech. Marrakech Menara Airport and the lavish and luxuriant palaces with huge pools that I could catch sight of from the plane, gave the impression of a prosperous and rich country. The airport was even rated as 4th most beautiful in the world lately...

Given the fact, that the airport was renovated and renewed in just a few months time for the United Nations climate change conference COP16 last year, it was all the more impressive and dubious at the same time. Because it is in stark contrast with poor locals, rock bottom neighbourhoods and dusty streets outside of the city centre of Marrakech. Of course, that is not where tourists go or look at usually.

Marrakech greated me with the buzz of a vibrating city, traffic, loud conversations and salespeople, as well as the intense smell of food and tea :) The structure of my hotel (typical Moroccan house, called riad, built around a central courtyard where the common places are) let me wake up to city noises, some birds inside the hotel and the other guests at breakfast. After a delicious breakfast and some cups of the famous Moroccan mint tea, I took of with a bus to reach my main destination: the coastal town of Essouira, well-known for its surf and fresh fish.

 

After hectic and busy Marrakech, I truly enjoyed the peace and quiet of Essouira; everything was relaxed and chill, the climate much cooler but still 20+ degrees. Even the local salespeople were calmer and not as pushy here: A taxi always cost 7 Dirham (0,65€), no matter where you wanted to go, and fresh sugar cane or pomegranate juice went for just 0,80€ without locals trying to cheat on you. Despite the calm and rural feeling, Essaouira is a very international place, with a comparably big harbour and beautiful medina, with open-minded and responsive people, local or tourist. Thus, I immediately became part of the easy-going surf community and my initial feeling of being alone passed quickly.

My original plan intended to give kite surfing a try, take some lessons and see if I enjoy it. Unfortunately for me, and all other kite surfers, the conditions did not let me to; there was almost no wind for a week already when I arrived and the forecast wasn't promising either. Seems, the best time for a high chance of good wind in Morocco is March to July... Good thing was, that I could switch to surfing instead and still have a great time :) 
 
  



The days in Essouira passed in no time: Surfing and nice conversations during the day, in the evening a quick visit to the local fish market for dirt-cheap amazingly fresh fish and seafood. Most restaurants in and around the medina prepare the food for you, add a little salad and vegetables, all for a small fee. After dinner, we went out for a few drinks two nights, Taros bar and restaurant is the place to be with its rooftop terrace(s) and usually live music. Be warned that taxes on alcohol are quite high in Morocco and a 0.25l beer can cost around 4-5€.  



 

Back in Marrakech I spent two days sightseeing, souvenir shopping at Africas biggest basar, the souk market, and relishing the specialties of the Moroccan cuisine! As well as the language, it has a touch of both, Arabic and French: While I am not a big fan of snails, I really loved the superb tagines, every couscous dish, thick beans and chawarma; and always have a fantastic mint tea close by :)

No only the ruins of the palaces Bahia and El Badi, but also the koran school Medersa Ben Youssef and the riad I stayed in, amaze with its beautiful ornaments, colorful mosaic tile (zellij) and round arched doors. Here are a few impressions:



 


One thing I could not overcome in these days was the motorcycles relentlessly driving through the narrow streets of the medina and the market. I mean, I got used to it and it was part of my experience of Marrakech, but hated it till the end. Especially coming back from Essaouira the busy centre Jemaa el-Fna with its market, busy food stalls, artists and snake charmers, musicians and games was too hectic and fast for my taste. 

While (souvenir) shopping, don't forget to haggle well as the starting price mostly is way too high; and always have some coins with you, as locals tend not to have change for 100 Dirham (around 9€) or more. Till my last day, I successfully refused the proposed haircut, but if every barber you pass, calls you Ali Baba and insists you shave your beard, I eventually gave in and got my beard trimmed - for a fragment of the price I usually pay in Germany anyways ;)


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