Antarctica - Expedition to the end of the world or a social experiment in the ice
The Southern tip of Patagonia (split between Argentina & Chile) is the point with the shortest distance to Antarctica from anywhere in the world, from Cape Horn it is „only“ approx. 1000 km to the Antarctic peninsula. Cruises last from 10 days until 3-4 weeks (if Polar Circle or Southern Georgia is included) and there is a range of ships/cruises offering such trips (currently there is 76 ships going to Antarctica), ranging from large proper cruise ships (400+ passengers) to smaller vessels for 100-130 passengers with a bit more expedition character; all ships have a different ice class meaning they are more or less able to go deeper into icy passages or bays, if their size allows that is. While the trip to Antarctica is never cheap both ends of this spectrum come with a premium; we found the MS Hamburg, a 30 year old German cruise ship for up to 300 passengers with a somewhat lower ice class, to be a good and more affordable compromise. Our actual cruise had 288 guests (+162 crew members) and a small team of expedition leaders that provided information and managed the landings and zodiac cruises. Among the majority of passengers being Germans between 50-80 years old (no kidding the oldest passenger was 92 years old!!), we found ourselves in the good company of some younger international backpackers; we established the „kid‘s table“ in the restaurant and despite a few stares and comments from others we undoubtingly had the most fun.
For instance, we got to spend an additional day in the calmer waters of the Straight of Magellan and the Beagle Channel (including our first penguins, dolphins and seals) to let a hefty storm pass before entering that passage so that we were exposed to winds of 15 knots and waves of up to 4-4.5m instead of 40-50 knots and 5-7m; motion sickness is usually an issue and while we were prepared by a) choosing a cabin on a low level in the center of the ship, b) using bracelets and ear pads as well as c) having motion sickness pills and ginger at hand, none of these cures motion sickness but offer a relieve at best, so does fresh air at the outside decks.
Overall, we had an okay crossing of the Drake Passage, and safely made it to the South Shetland Islands in front of the Antarctic peninsula where the first activities were planned. Seeing land again and having snow capped mountains, ice and glaciers all around us was a welcome change and the entire landscape and color palette felt somewhat surreal, of course we wanted to start exploring: But at that point we experienced what it means to be on an expedition rather than a cruise: nothing is ever guaranteed, and a lot of flexibility and patience is required when the plans change a few times a day since they are entirely weather dependent, which again is unpredictable and we had changes from sunny and calm to winds of 45 knots within 30 mins. On top, the IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Treaty Operators) is strictly managing the landings, there can never be more than one boat and a maximum of 100 people on land at one site at all times; all these landings need to be booked in advance and chances are high that all other ships are effected and want to change bookings if weather is difficult.
Unfortunately, our first two landings at Half Moon Island and Deception Island both got cancelled short notice, with us already being in full gear and ready to get on the zodiac. Instead we watched both places from the deck of the cruise ship and also spotted the first whale.. after that point we felt FOMO whenever not being on deck or near a window, we did not want to be the ones missing a whale or even orca pop up - one day we even got up at 4.30am to look for whales, at least we‘ve seen one that time and Diana is considering another career as a professional whale spotter ;)
At this point the cruise felt a bit like a social experiment: lock up a group of strangers for a few days on a cruise ship in small cabins, with predominantly middle-aged to retired Germans, provide an abundance of excellent food (spread over five meals a day, blend of Indian/Indonesian/German cuisine, even good vegetarian options most of the time), heavy sea and weather conditions, boil up frustration levels by promising landings and cancel again, create a constant FOMO for wildlife being all around, all garnished with being cut off the internet due to an unreliable pay-per-use internet connection via satellite.. a lot of people were on the edge, and aggression levels rose when the first landings didn‘t work out and we were stuck on the ship; for us regularly using the gym helped a bit, although an interesting experience with such winds/waves!
The day after luckily the wind calmed down, we had passed the Gelache Straight to the Antarctic peninsula and while we expected yet another cancellation, we actually got to leave the ship for one zodiac ride (supposed to be a landing though) at Ronge Island where we could see penguins, seals and even whales. That was good for everyone’s spirit and sanity ;) Later the same day we eventually had our first landing on the peninsular, at Orne Harbour, to see a colony of chinstrap penguins and an amazing panorama of the bay. The penguin colonies you smell from far far away, but seeing them waddle around on the so called penguin highways and feeding their chicks was an indescribable experience.
Then the highlights kept on coming, we had some clear days with almost no wind (well, below 10 knots goes a long way in Antarctica) and we got used to early rises for landings or zodiac rides at picturesque bay and islands (Penguins at Cuverville Island, Paradise Bay with mirror like sea surface). The sun never really sets here in the summer time, so there is daylight almost all around the clock and spotting whales (in the early morning) was a regular occasion, it was just a matter of how far away from the boat. And after we‘ve seen plenty of humpbacks, the FOMO faded, and eventually we even spotted a bunch of Orcas in Dallman Bay, where we were hiding out from some more storms coming in. While we could spot whales on a daily basis, the stock in Antarctic water is still only 5% of what it had been before the whale hunting days in the early 1900s; imagine how many there could have been today :(
Due to stronger winds and more extreme conditions our landing at Port Lockroy was cancelled, unfortunately the only research station that had opened up for visitors again after covid (Antarctica is split between a lot of countries, and the main purpose for these being present here is research). Instead, we got to ride the zodiac around the Melchior Islands with amazing glacier and snow formations, there is always a plan b, c or d ;) Eventually, after five days around Antarctica it was time to head back, not before passing the narrow Lemaire Channel that reminded a lot of Norwegian fjords and visiting more penguin colonies (Chinstrap, Gentoo and Adelie) at Petermann Island - there was a few chicks to be seen and large Weddel seal sunbathing, in the bay some more humpback whales wanted to say good-bye :) With 65° South this was also our southern most point, only few cruises go beyond this point in general; to pass and explore the polar circle ships with a higher ice class are needed and much more time (up to 3 weeks from Patagonia).
Another two days on the ship through the Drake Passage (similar conditions as on the way there with 4-4.5 m waves, we only woke up at point at night when it felt rocky for an hour or so) concluded our visit to the 7th continent and after 12 days and 3904 km on the sea we arrived in Ushuaia, Argentinas most Southern inhabited town - a once in a lifetime, unforgettable experience! I got an idea of how the explorers in the 17th and 18th century must have felt when spotting land after weeks and months on their ships, because never have I been happier to see land and civilization again; the first steps back on mainland felt special and my body took some time to adjust to stable grounds, for the first hours I was under the impression of still being on the ship. During the half-day trip to the National Park Tierra del Fuego, everything from (green & yellow) colors, scents and vegetation seemed much more intense and beautiful!
Much love from the end of the world,
Seb
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