Estonia & Finland - Baltic Breeze and Northern Light

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A long Ascension weekend finally took us to Tallinn and Helsinki - this Baltic double feature had been on my list for ages. An early evening flight brought us to tiny Tallinn airport, just ten minutes from the city. Still daylight and 18°C at 9 pm, we wandered through the cobbled old town and enjoyed home-brewed beers and medieval fare. 


Tallinn instantly charmed us - small and picturesque, with a mix of Nordic and Baltic vibes, medieval walls beside sleek modern corners, and a language full of funny German echoes. The next morning began with coffee and rhubarb pastries in Rotermanni before joining a walking tour through the old town. From Freedom Square to Toompea Castle, via the onion domes of Alexander Nevski Cathedral, guide Kadri shared stories of Estonia’s many occupiers and its proud independence since 1991. The views from Toompea and Kohtuotsa lookout stretched from the red rooftops to the Baltic Sea. 





After elk roast and white fish for lunch, we strolled the seaside promenade - peaceful, green, full of birds - before heading to the hipster haven of Telliskivi. Once industrial, now bursting with markets, murals, and microbreweries, it was the perfect place for dinner and a cocktail at the Sigmund Freud Bar. 


Our last day in Tallinn took us to Kadriorg Park, the art museum, a quirky Methodist church, and a sunny street-food festival conveniently next to the ferry terminal. Soon we were crossing the Gulf of Finland toward Helsinki - along with a ship full of Finns stocking up on cheap Estonian booze.


Another city, another country, and more sunshine. A seaside run, strong hotel coffee, and then a Finntastic walking tour with guide Matti, who explained why Finns are among the world’s happiest people - and how saunas, not sunshine, are the secret. With three million saunas for 5.5 million people, even the harbor Ferris wheel has one. Helsinki’s obsession with libraries also amazed us: Oodi, the central library, doubles as a community lab with 3D printers, studios, and even a kitchen.




After a hearty Finnish lunch - salmon soup, fried vendace, and pastries at Fazer - we met Didi’s friend Viktoria and her kids, visited the grand Russian-Orthodox cathedral, then rewarded ourselves with sauna, pool, and gym time at the hotel. When our dinner plan fell through, an impromptu Italian feast saved the evening.


Our final day led us by boat to Suomenlinna fortress, a lush island of wildflowers, sea breeze, and history. We peeked inside a claustrophobic submarine museum and then, to complete the Finnish experience, sweated it out in a public sauna before dipping into the chilly Baltic. Didi went for one last salmon soup, I tried a reindeer hotdog, and then it was time to fly home. ✈️



Four days that felt much longer - two compact, walkable, welcoming capitals. Tallinn, medieval and charming, reminded us of Kraków and Ljubljana; Helsinki, grand and spacious, carried the imprint of nearby St. Petersburg. Great weather, good food, and just enough quirk to make us smile - a perfect Baltic-Nordic escape.


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